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Fifth Cup: Shan tea of the “5 Extremes” in Suoi Giang, Yen Bai
| From Hanoi, it takes about 150 km to Yen Bai. Another 70 km will take you to Van Chan district, and after an extra 12 km, you will reach Suoi Giang commune – home to more than 400 wild ancient Snow Shan tea trees, hundreds of years old. They have been recognized as “Vietnam Heritage Trees” by Vietnam Association for Conservation of Nature and Environment. The whole population of Snow Shan tea trees in Suoi Giang, Yen Bai grow naturally on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, 1,300 – 1,800 m above sea level, enrobed in white clouds all year round. The ancient tea trees, 100 – 300 years old, scatter on stepping mountain slopes, in deep ravines and dense forests. Among the 400 ha of Snow Shan tea trees, 300 ha comprises of wild ones, mostly found at the hamlets of Giang A, Giang B, Pang Cang, Tap Lang I, Tap Lang II, Suoi Lop… It takes several adults to fully embrace a tree, whose trunk is covered in white lichens, with a canopy extends to 20m2. Shan tea buds here are big, robust, and sport a velvety, snow-white coat of fur. |
The Snow Shan tea from Suoi Giang, Yen Bai has long been classified as a first-class delicacy thanks to the story of the “5 Extremes”.The first extreme is “extremely hard” to plant and harvest the tea (which requires climbing towering trees). The second one is “extremely clean” as the trees grow naturally in the wild, without human cares, pesticides or plant growth stimulants… The third is “extremely rare”, because productivity is quite low compared to industrially grown teas. The forth is “extremely delicious” – with all the virtues of wild teas of the Northwest region. Finally, the tea is “extremely expensive” – but totally worthy of the asking price. 98% of the population in Suoi Giang is the H’Mông people. Their livelihood is tea harvest and processing with traditional, manual methods, passed down from countless generations.
Shan tea trees usual yield 4 crops/ year. The spring crop begins in late March; its quality is the highest of all crops with the percentage of “snow” tea buds reaching 50%. It is also the crop with the highest productivity, accounting for 35 – 40% of the annual total output. The next crops fall to May, August and October.
When the Snow Shan tea harvests come, the villages are scented with the rich aroma of fresh tea leaves roasted in cast iron pans over wood fires. Snow Shan tea of Suoi Giang possesses a bright, clear water, gleaming golden as wild honey, with a restrained, contemplative flavor, and a sweet aftertaste that remains after many brews.
In time, Snow Shan tea processing in Suoi Giang has been standardized, up-scaled, and professionalized, reinforcing this brand of tea in the domestic and international markets. Some remarkable milestones include the establishment of Yen Bai delicacy tea factory in 1980; the founding of Suoi Giang co-operative in 2007; the construction of a tea processing factory with QSEAP capital in 2015. By 2018, there are quite a number of Shan tea processing and exporting companies.
Besides Suoi Giang, Sung Do is another location in Van Chan district, still off the radar when it comes to ancient teas. Arduous transportation, inaccessibility in rainy season, and a lack of electricity are the chief causes.
Still Sung Do holds potential comparable to that of Suoi Giang. At the height of 1,300 – 1,500 m, Sung Do got 80 ha of tea trees (including 37 ha of wild ones). The trees are 300 – 400 years old, suitable for the making of green and yellow teas, in low quantity.
Although there is room for improvement in tea production, Sung Do tea’s essence has been highly regarded by French experts, in prestigious tea competitions. A mysterious gem of the Yen Bai tea area, one could speak of Sung Do as such.
Now a famous landmark to tea-lovers, Yen Bai justifies its fame with the population of ancient Snow Shan tea trees, which also generate healthy incomes for the local H’Mông people.